We (Berthold Struk, Fran Benham and I) flew out of Berlin on an icy January morning. Many hours and time zones later, we landed on a lovely, warm, tropical morning in Chennai, India. We came to visit Sankara Nethralaya (Temple of the Eye), one of the world’s largest eye care centers where needy patients do not hear terms like insurance, co-pays or outpatient care, but are treated with the latest in medical advances no matter their ability to pay. We saw astonishing numbers of patients and staff working efficiently so that all could receive needed attention. And we saw patience, kindness and gentle good humor. We came away humbled and honored to have had such an opportunity. Please read Fran’s more detailed article about this remarkable institution after I share some observations and a few of the many photos Berthold and I took as roving reporters.

Where to begin? We had so many memorable experiences - some I am still processing. Let me start by thanking those who planned and provided guides for us. Josh, from Sankara Nethralaya, proved a wonderful guide around Chennai, introducing us to a local shrine, an outdoor market, a church with wedding in progress, the nearby beach on the Bay of Bengal and a busy mall which rivals any in the West. Josh taught us much about Indian life and customs. Dr. Rashmin Gandhi with his lovely wife, Pritti, led a marvelous tour in the Chennai region, Mysore and Bangalore. His goal was to make sure we saw “the real India.” We believe we did and are most grateful for all that Dr. Gandhi did for us. Those who participated in NAPE’s Atlanta conference will recall the role he played there.

Prior to our trip, we heard that India is densely populated and very poor. Its land mass is about one-third that of the United States while its population of 1.3 billion is more than three times larger than ours. There is poverty, but it should be noted that India’s middle class is as large as the entire U.S. population and growing. So, it is more fair to say that there is wealth and poverty in India just as there is in our nation. India’s economy is growing rapidly compared to our own as India, along with China, is once again emerging as an international trading power, just as both once were when our nation was a cluster of villages on our eastern shore. Yes, India does have much to do to deal with poverty and population. Institutions like Sankara Nethralaya are an important part of the move to improve life for all in India.

A very important part of any culture is its food, and India lives up to its reputation for exotic delicious foods. The cuisine, mostly vegetarian, is highly varied. Those who enjoy hot spicy dishes (like Berthold Struk) will be delighted, and those who prefer milder fare will find that too. Fresh fruits - mangos, pineapple, bananas, coconut, apples, citrus and various melons - are widely available. Desserts we had never encountered before, like a wonderful sweet carrot custard served with ice cream, inspire our hope to replicate them at home. The various breads were wonderful, and we were surprised and pleased with the many ways rice is presented, including in breakfast pancakes served with a delicious lentil sauce. Western food choices were available, but we loved eating the delectable Indian way.

Travel in India is an adventure. The old rickshaw is now a small three-wheeled motor-driven vehicle. These mustard-colored vehicles are everywhere, providing inexpensive transportation for short trips. A more exciting trip is available by motor scooter. One sees groups of two, three or four people tooling along in heavy traffic all perched on these little bikes which zip in and out of small openings in the traffic stream, which fortunately is not moving too rapidly. Interspersed with these small vehicles are autos, vans, huge buses and trucks - lots of honking horns and more than a little exhaust smoke filling the crowded city streets. It is noisy, exciting and at times a tad stressful, but surprisingly seems to result in few accidents. And along the sides of the busy streets are throngs of people on foot. Getting across those streets requires speed and daring. Locals seem to take it all in stride, but to us it was part of the excitement and made us feel brave indeed!

India is colorful! One quickly notices, for example, bright creative decorations on the buses which provide mass transit. One also quickly sees that men’s clothing is quietly conservative while women wear beautiful and colorful dress. Younger women tend to wear more western styles with distinctive Indian touches - most notably the lovely fabrics. Fran and I could not resist adding Indian outfits to our own closets. I greatly enjoy the comfort and beauty of mine which I wear regularly.

Education is a great value of Indian life. A common sight is children in school uniforms wearing backpacks on their way to school. We learned that most children attend school and that doing well is prized. As in our own country, Indians use education to improve opportunity. Science and math seem to receive more attention than in our schools, and India’s scientific and technical successes are playing a major role in the improving economy. At Sankara Nethralaya we were pleased to meet quite a number of women physicians and scientists.

Shrines and temples, ancient and modern, attest to a

thriving spiritual life among Indian people. We visited temples that were old before Columbus, looking for a short passage to India, found instead what became the Americas. Such temples still draw many worshippers.

Indian family ties are strong. Parents play an active role in the choice of a spouse for their children. Older people are treated with respect. Fran got a kick out of being addressed as “Mama” by merchants who offered her a chair and brought their wares to her. She was surprised by people who asked to take photos with her and by children who wanted to talk to her. She says these will remain among her cherished memories of India.

Our travel included a van with local driver, a train and air travel. We covered many miles through villages and farmlands. We saw fields being worked by the most modern tractors and others by bullock-pulled plows. Cattle, goats and other animals wandered about freely though we were told that the number is lower than in the past as modern life has decreased space and nourishment for them.